New book launch
Sunday, September 7th, 2014
Saturday the 6th of September saw sewing shop Guthrie and Ghani deck the halls with bunting, bring out the cake and throw it’s doors open to the masses. Why I hear you ask? Well, shop owner and Sewing Bee 2013 finalist Lauren Guthrie was celebrating her new book ‘Learn to Sew with Lauren’ hitting the shelves and I for one was keen to get my hands on a copy. So I was happy to make the five hour round trip to Birmingham to join in with the jollity. I’d pre-ordered my (signed) book which entitled me to a free mini workshop while I was there too – I made a really sweet hair bow which is one of the patterns in the book . I also drank coffee, ate cake and chatted with fellow sewers who were all there to do the same thing. Lauren was her usual helpful and inspiring self and clearly in a state of euphoria that so many people had taken the time to pop in to wish her well. I’ve had a quick flick through my book – which came with a lovely ribbon book mark hand made by Lauren, and it looks great. There are projects for the home, accessories and also for those who want to make clothes. She’s made sure everything is explained clearly and the aim of the book is to take those new to sewing right from the beginner stages to being able to sew more advanced projects. I’m no beginner but I’m still looking forward to having a go at some of the projects – they are all so great. Here are some pics of the day.
My copy of the book:
Me and Lauren with the sweet bow hair grip I made at the mini workshop:
My fellow sewers busy making something lovely
And finally the cake!
Friday Pattern Pick
Friday, September 5th, 2014
I’m relatively new to sewing with knits and this was the very first pattern I tried once I’d decided to give it a go. Please welcome to Friday Pattern Pick, the fabulous Coco, designed by Tilly Walnes of www.tillyandthebuttons.com
Now I’d heard it through the grapevine that knits can be troublesome at times so I approached this project with slight trepidation. But I shouldn’t have bothered wasting my energy. Tilly makes it all so simple. Her pattern is easy to follow and comes with an instruction booklet which contains step by step instructions with matching colour photographs. The booklet also has nuggets of advice for sewing with knits and how to avoid all the common mistakes it’s easy to make – so ideal for newbies.
The illustrated instruction book
The pattern itself is printed on stiff paper unlike the tissue paper affairs commonly associated with patterns so it’s robust and can withstand repeated use. Even though the pattern pieces are overlaid, when I made my Coco I still traced off my chosen size as I wanted to preserve the original in case I change shape (again!) and need it to be bigger (likely) or smaller (unlikely.)
There are a variety of Coco’s to choose from. Make the dress (like I did) or a top. Add pockets or not, and either go with the round neck or choose a very retro funnel neck. Once you’ve mastered the standard Coco you can customise it too – try chopping the sleeves shorter or make a longer version of the dress. It’s a really easy garment to work with. The standard Coco has only four pieces – front, back, pockets and sleeves. It’s a dress you could easily make in just a couple of hours – ideal for busy folks.
I’ve made two of these now – both dresses and I love them. They are pleasure itself to wear and can be dressed up or down for any occasion. I used Ponte Roma fabric both times – one a polka dot blue with over sized dots and the other a burnt orange to which I added mustard coloured pockets. The style suits slightly thicker knit fabric – best not to use very thin Jersey. Interlock knits are a good choice too.
Back of the pattern sleeve
What I also like about the Coco is the packaging. Tilly has given a lot of thought to the design and longevity of the pattern sleeve and has created something particularly appealing. I want to make the funnel neck top next – possibly in a stripe this time. I’ll post it here when it’s finished – so watch this space.
Make more time for sewing!
Thursday, September 4th, 2014
Our lives are busy these days. And sadly more often than not things we don’t want to be doing get in the way of things we really do want to be doing – sewing in my case (and maybe yours non?)
So in an attempt to help us all have more time for doing what we love, Beth Nicholls of Do What You Love fame has designed a FREE 31 day programme to show us ways to find more time in our crazy days. Every day brings a different exercise to try, each getting longer by a minute – so one minute on day one and 31 minutes on day 31. The exercises are delivered by email and are accompanied by lots of nuggets of inspiration. The programme started on 1st of September – but it’s not too late to join in. Just head over to http://dowhatyouloveforlife.com/makingtime/ and sign up. I started the programme on day one and it’s really interesting.
I’ve done things with Beth before – most notably her Do What You Love online course. She is full of ideas and is such an inspiration. Beth really does have a zest for life, seeking out adventure at every turn and she encourages everyone she interacts with to do the same. I do hope I get to meet this lovely lady one day – I’d like to thank her personally for moving me closer to achieving some of my long held dreams.
Exciting espadrilles
Wednesday, September 3rd, 2014
This week I’ve extended my dressmaking repertoire into making shoes – espadrilles to be exact. I love the carefree look and feel of espadrilles and it’s great that they come in so many colours – there’s a pair for every outfit you make. So when I saw this espadrilles kit from Prym (£8.90) I just knew I had to give them a go.
The kit contains the pattern and soles but no instructions – for these you have to visit the Prym website and print them off. There are two pieces to the pattern – the heel piece and the toe piece and to make them up you need an outer fabric (strong linen/canvas style fabric is ideal) – I chose a spotty linen type, a lining fabric – I used soft cotton – and some interfacing which gets sandwiched between the lining and outer to offer stability.
They are easy to put together – the only technique you need is hand blanket stitch. Pushing the needle through the sole can be tough, so use a sharp leather needle and a thimble to help. You’ll also need to use extra strong polyester thread to ensure it doesn’t all unravel.
I did have a problem with mine, well two in fact. Firstly, although I cut the correct size pattern pieces out, they were too small for the size of the sole (which was a size five – my usual size). Luckily I had some material left over so cut again using the size six pattern pieces. These fitted the size five soles fine. My second problem came when I tried them on after I’d finished – they were too big and I couldn’t walk in them without them slipping off. I toyed with the idea of putting a little bit of elastic inside at the heel, but couldn’t get it to look right. So in the end I sewed two lengths of ribbon to each shoe and I tie these around the ankles, to keep them on. They are fine for standing around in but not really for walking. I don’t mind – they still look great and I just make sure I only wear them when I’m not going far.
When I make them again (and I definitely will as they are lovely) I will buy the sole in a smaller size. This will, I’m sure, solve the problem of fit. If you want to give them a go it could be worth measuring your feet against the soles before you buy to make sure yours area a snug fit. Happy making.
Four lovely books
Sunday, August 31st, 2014
I love a good sewing book – they’re a great source of advice and inspiration. Rammed full of techniques and top tips, it always a good idea to have one or two on hand to offer a bit of help if you get stuck with something. Here are four I really like (a lot!)
The Great British Sewing Bee, Sew Your Own Wardrobe by Tessa Evelegh with a forward from Patrick Grant and May Martin. £12 from Amazon.
I love this book as it really brings the programme to life by tackling some of the patterns and techniques seen on the show with pictures of the contestants throughout too. The instructions are clear and most topics are covered. With the book you also get five full size pattern sheets – the pattern pieces are overlaid so you’ll need to trace off the ones you want to use. This is a great book for those just starting out in dressmaking.
The Collette Guide to Sewing Knits by Alyson Clair. £15 from Amazon
I bought this book about eight months ago when I first decided to make something out of a knit rather than woven fabric. Knits can by tricky if you don’t know the correct techniques to use but once mastered, sewing with knits is very satisfying and opens up a whole different option for your wardrobe. This little book takes you right from the basics (understanding and choosing the fabric, needles to use, useful tools etc) right through to the more advanced techniques such as using an overlocker and installing a stretch lace edge. Nothing is left to chance – if you’re new to knits, this book will tell you everything you need to know in an easy to understand way.
Sew Over It – Sew It, Wear It, Love It by Lisa Comfort. £12 from Amazon
I love giving old clothes a new lease of life by adding embellishments, changing the shape, adding or taking off sleeves etc. Sometimes I lack a bit of inspiration though and struggle to see what I can do to make something fab again. Enter this book. Dedicated to customising, adapting and updating vintage clothes, it highlights all sorts of techniques and ideas to do just that. It’s a lovely dip in and out of book with a vintage feel and is one of those that you learn something new from every time you look through it. It also includes how to make accessories to match or compliment your outfit.
101 Great Ways to Sew a Metre by Rebecca Yaker and Patricia Hoskins. £11.50 from Amazon
This is a very useful addition to any sewers bookshelf. I often buy a metre of fabric not knowing what I’ll so with it. Or if it’s a particularly expensive piece of cloth I may only be able to justify buying a small amount. So this book is great for these occasions as it is crammed with projects that take under a metre of fabric to make. It includes clothes for women and children and accessories too. It includes all the patterns you need although some of the projects are made using measurements alone and don’t call for a pattern. Instructions are clear and many of the projects are ideal for those sewers still gaining experience and confidence.
Friday pattern pick
Friday, August 29th, 2014
Today’s pattern pick is a firm favourite of mine – it’s Lisette 2059 for Simplicity. The pictures on the front don’t do this pattern any justice so try to think of the garments being made in your favourite fabric or colour – this often helps to visualise how they could look once made up.
I’ve made four versions of the blouse now (view B) and all have turned out lovely. It’s an easy to wear, loose, pull on style with gathers at the back – seems to suit all shapes. I just love the ahem, simplicity of it. I made one version in brown, vintage floral fabric bought from Ditto Fabrics in Brighton and the style of the blouse seems to really suit this genre. Or you could go for 70’s retro with a bright, large pattern. It’s so simple that it will really suit any fabric – be as adventurous as you like. Or go for plain colours – you could then jazz it up with lace, sequins or ribbons. It’s not difficult to make, having only seven pieces to fathom out with one of those being the neck binding – you could try shop bought binding instead to add a bit of colour or texture.
I’ve also made the skirt (view C) – just one in a blue batik fabric. The style is A line (doesn’t really show that too much on the pattern) and is bias cut. I like it most when I’m wearing it with thick tights and boots, but bare legs for the summer would look great too – it is rather short so measure well before you cut. It’s another easy make consisting of only two pieces. It has a zipper to do but nothing more complicated than that – and zips aren’t complicated once you’ve done one or two – if you’re unsure, do a practice zip first using scraps of fabric and an old zip taken out of something you no longer need.
What are your favourite patterns – go on, spill the beans!
Shabby cheeks
Tuesday, August 26th, 2014
Well the chinos are finished and mightily pleased I am with them too! These are made with a pattern called Alpi which is from the company Named (you can make them as shorts too). Not the most straightforward of patterns, and the instructions were a little on the loose side too but, given the finished result I would definitely give patterns from these guys another go.
The biggest obstacle I came across was the sizing. I measured myself pretty well, traced and cut out the appropriate size, but these still made up far too big – a lot was chopped off the side seams and I took the back seam in a little too. They are still a bit loose, but to be honest I’d much prefer that to something tight. I will of course remember to cut a smaller size next time!
Also, if you look closely, one back pocket is slightly higher than the other. But I’m sure no-one will notice!
I used a bit of Liberty print on the front and back pockets and on the inside of the waistband too, which I think adds just a little bit of interest in what is otherwise a pretty plain (although very nice) fabric.
What they cost:
1.5m of cotton drill = £6.50
0.5m of Liberty print = £11 (not really needed – I used it as I had it left over from something else)
Pattern = £14.50 (not a one off use)
Haberdashery (metal tooth zip, interfacing, button, cotton) = £5.10
Grand total: £37.10
So it might seem a lot but next time I won’t need to buy the pattern and I won’t use Liberty print so the cost will be nearer to £12 – bargain.
Friday pattern pick
Friday, August 22nd, 2014
From now on, let’s try and make Friday into ‘pattern day’. I’ll try and remember to put up my pattern pick of the week and, hopefully, others will post about theirs too in the comments box at the bottom. It could be a pattern well used and loved, a vintage number, one bought a while back but not yet used or even one spotted but not yet bought. Either way, hopefully they will serve as inspiration for others to seek out and give em a whirl.
So first off we’ve got a pattern by the company Sewaholic which is based in Canada although its patterns are available worldwide. It’s called The Belcarra Blouse.
I’ve made three of these summer blouses now and they are super simple but look great. If you opt for version A then you’ve got nothing tricky to deal with – no tucks, darts, pockets – nothing. Version B adds pin tucks at the shoulders which are so cute and version C gives you a little breast pocket. So far all mine are version A as I wanted them to be a really quick evening make. One I was still sewing on the morning of a long weekend break while Mr Sassy stood nearby tapping his watch. I whipped it together in double quick time and didn’t make us late leaving by even a minute. Version A has only six pieces, B has seven with C having nine. One of mine I finished with bought in bias binding around the sleeve and neck edges which made it even quicker than ever.
The blouse is very flattering, just coming in slightly at the waist. Be careful of the neck though – mine are all a little big on me even though I’d made the correct size, so I’m going to adjust the pattern a little next time I make one (and there will be a next time).
The simplicity of this pattern allows you to make it in almost any fabric. I have one in a Liberty print lawn, one in a stiffer cotton and, my favourite, one made out of a Japanese double gauze. They’re all lovely and all so simple.
First fly zipper done
Tuesday, August 19th, 2014
The chinos are coming on well and will be finished this week – just have the waistband and hem to sew. They’ve been a little tricky, mostly because the pattern instructions aren’t very clear (in the end I’ve just winged it a bit) but I’m over the moon with the fly zipper. This is the first time I’ve tried one and I was a tad worried that it would be difficult, but it’s not at all. I did get a bit of a wobble on when I was sewing around the curve at the bottom,probably because I rushed it a bit but, unless someone is getting very personal, I don’t think it’ll be noticeable once I’ve got them on. I’ve still got the bar tack to do – this is just to reinforce the stitching across the seam to make it robust during repeated use, and then it’s done. I’ll be making loads of trousers now I’ve mastered this technique.
Watch out for my tutorial on sewing a fly – coming soon over on the Sassy ‘ssentials page.
I’ve bought an Overlocker!
Sunday, August 17th, 2014
Today I took delivery of a Brother 1034D overlocker. I’ve never used an overlocker before but felt it was time to get to grips with this often confusing aspect of sewing. We have an industrial one at the sewing class I attend but attendees are not allowed to use it – I’ve had a good look though and boy does it look complicated! But I’m not going to be put off – I love a challenge.
This is the Brother straight out of the box:
And this is what it came with:
Overlockers have got many uses, the most common being to finish edges of your garments in a professional manner and for sewing with knits (you don’t need an overlocker to have success with knits, it just makes it easier). It was while making a dress with a knit fabric called Ponte Roma that I began to wonder about using an overlocker. About a week later an episode of The Sewing Bee had the contestants using one and at that point I started to plan my purchase.
Choosing new kit can sometimes seem a bit daunting but there’s no reason to panic anymore – there is so much information on the Internet these days that it’s easier than ever to make the right choice. Some of my favourite bloggers use this machine and a quick read of the reviews on Amazon convinced me to give it a go. Most said it was easy to thread and use and very few had anything bad to say about it.
Mine cost £189 from Amazon. Normally, I’d always try to support my local sewing shop but when you live out in the sticky bits of the sticks like we do, there are some things you can’t just go and see in action first, so I took a chance online. But if you can get to a shop for a bit of a test ride, I would highly recommend it as you never really know if you’re going to gel with something until you’ve used it.
As I am a overlocker virgin I’ve enrolled on an online video course called ‘Beginner Serging- machine basics and techniques’ (serger being the American name for an overlocker). The course, run by craftsy.com and costing £22 starts right at the beginning with what the machine is about and which bit is what, right through to helping you make three items – a zipper bag, an apron and a knit scarf.The machine itself comes with full instructions and a DVD to watch, so hopefully it won’t take too long to get to grips with it.
Tomorrow I’m going to get started – check back later for my first thoughts on this machine. I can’t tell you excited I am.
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